The Alaia Story
A Brief History
Riding a surfboard across the breaking face of a wave is an international sport enjoyed by millions of surfers around the world.
Surfing is not, however a new sport,
nor is it a western creation.
Two centuries ago it was primarily a Polynesian sport among which the ancient Hawaiians were the experts.
Although it impossible to say exactly when man first began to surf in the Pacific, the wide distribution of the sport throughout islands of this vast ocean indicates a considerable antiquity for the sport.
It probably dates as far back as 3,000 – 4,000 years ago
In ancient times surfing was an activity done by all in society. In Tahiti, for example the first explorers found that Tahitians of all ages and social classes were enthusiastic and skilled surfers and that mature men and women prided themselves on their surfing prowess.
In Hawaii, the first true surfboards evolved, which allowed riders to stand and manoeuvre at will on a wave face.
The two main surfboards of the ancient Hawaiians were the ‘Alaia’ and the ‘Olo’;
both being the result of hundreds of years of experimentation and testing by generations of Hawaiians.
The ‘Alaia’ boards remain closest to the original belly-boards; in that they were fairly short, thin and could not fully support a rider until the board was planning on a wave
An average type of ‘Alaia’ board was
6 foot – 8 foot long, 14-18 inches wide
and an inch or so thick. The nose was usually wide and rounded and the sides tapered towards a squared off tail. In cross section both decks were apparently convex meeting with narrow and sometimes sharp side rails
The ancient Alaia’s were made from trees such as Breadfruit, mahogany-like Koa and the balsa-like Wiliwili trees which were also prized for making canoe hulls and outrigger floats.
Expert board makers were employed to search the forests for sound trees, which were then felled and shaped on the spot into one of the surfboard blanks.
. The rough blank would then be hauled down to shore to a canoe house or other dwelling for completion. Careful work with fine adzes
and coral sanding blocks gave the board its final shape then polished with stone ‘rubbers’ to give a smooth finish.
Stained a dark colour with one or more vegetable dyes, when dry the board was dressed with Kukui Nut Oil or Coconut Oil giving a black glossy finish ready for surfing.
Boards were highly valued possessions among the Hawaiians and cared by drying and oiling after each surfing session, wrapped in Tapa cloth and suspended inside houses to stop sun and insect damage.
Highly manoeuvrable, Alaia boards were adapted for catching steep, fast breaking waves and for the La La technique of riding diagonally across the waves face.
Although they lack fins that modern surfers consider so essential for the boards performance, Alaia boards can be turned at will and ridden across a wave with ease.
Information Source: A Pictoral History of Surfing by Frank Margan & Ben. R. Finney.
The modern Alaia is made from Paulownia timber which is highly water resistant, very similar to the Wili Wili timber used by Hawaiians
Ancient Craft hand shapes each board individually using hand tools such as block planes, spoke shaves and custom made sanding blocks. The finished boards are coated with an organic oil mix.
Ancient Craft Alaia’s are close replicas’ of the original Hawaiian boards with a modern touch and a concave adaptation in the design.
Riding an Alaia may at first seem almost impossible, but with a little patience and the realization that you are learning to surf again, you will start to feel the same joy that the ancient Polynesians experienced.
Not only will riding these boards be new and exciting, you will begin to realize that the ancient Hawaiians had invented a surfboard that resembles snowboarding on water and is progressive and almost futuristic in its nature.
But most of all it’s fun. Enjoy!